Category: Niet Klagen

  • What’s a good bike ride in Amsterdam?

    What’s a good bike ride in Amsterdam?

    The best bike rides in Amsterdam take you out of the tourist centre and into the city’s quieter neighbourhoods, waterways, and surrounding polder landscape. Most locals cycle daily without thinking of it as a “ride” at all, but for visitors and newer residents, the sweet spot is a loop through the Jordaan, along the IJ waterfront, or out through the Eastern Docklands. The questions below break down exactly where to go, how long to ride, and what to know before you clip in.

    Where do locals actually cycle in Amsterdam?

    Locals cycle everywhere, but the routes they genuinely enjoy rather than just tolerate tend to follow the water. The Amstel River south of the city, the IJ waterfront east of Centraal Station, and the quiet streets of the Jordaan and De Pijp neighbourhoods are where you will find Amsterdammers cycling at a human pace rather than dodging tour groups.

    The area around Westerpark and the Haarlemmerdijk is a favourite for weekend riding. Head east, and the Eastern Docklands, with their dramatic architecture and wide waterside paths, offer a genuinely photogenic and relatively uncrowded ride. The Amstelpark loop in the south is another local staple, especially on Sunday mornings when traffic is light and the city feels briefly like it belongs to its residents again.

    What all these routes share is a deliberate distance from the Leidseplein-to-Dam Square corridor, which is the cycling equivalent of a rush-hour motorway, except the hazards are confused pedestrians with selfie sticks.

    What’s the difference between cycling in Amsterdam and cycling out of it?

    Cycling inside Amsterdam means navigating dense urban traffic, tram rails, one-way streets, and a constant flow of other cyclists moving at very different speeds. Cycling out of Amsterdam, into the surrounding polder countryside, means flat open roads, almost no cars, and a completely different experience of the Netherlands that most visitors never see.

    The transition happens quickly. Within fifteen minutes of leaving the city centre, you can be on a dedicated cycle path through open farmland, passing windmills and grazing cattle. Routes north through the IJ tunnel towards Waterland, or south along the Amstel towards Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, are the most accessible escapes. Ouderkerk is particularly good: a pretty village with a strong cafe culture, reachable in under an hour, and entirely achievable on a standard city bike.

    The two experiences are genuinely different things. City cycling is practical and intense. Countryside cycling is meditative and flat in the best possible way.

    How long should a good Amsterdam bike ride be?

    A satisfying Amsterdam bike ride is typically between one and three hours, covering anywhere from ten to thirty kilometres depending on pace and destination. Shorter than an hour and you barely scratch the surface. Longer than three hours and the flat terrain, while forgiving on the legs, can become monotonous without a clear destination to break it up.

    For a city loop, ninety minutes is the sweet spot. You can cover the Jordaan, the IJ waterfront, the Eastern Docklands, and loop back through the Plantage neighbourhood without feeling rushed or exhausted. For a countryside excursion, two to three hours gives you enough time to reach Ouderkerk aan de Amstel or the Waterland villages north of the city, stop for coffee, and return at a relaxed pace.

    The honest answer is that Amsterdam rewards slow cycling far more than fast cycling. The city is dense with things worth stopping for.

    Which Amsterdam bike routes are best for first-timers?

    The best Amsterdam bike route for first-timers is the IJ waterfront east of Centraal Station, heading through the Eastern Docklands to the NEMO Science Museum and beyond. It is wide, well-marked, mostly flat, and far less chaotic than the city centre streets. You get dramatic views of the harbour and modern architecture without the stress of tram rails and dense pedestrian crossings.

    A second strong option for first-timers is the Amstel River route heading south from the city. You pick up the river near Carré Theatre and follow it out through Amstelpark towards Ouderkerk. The path is clear, the scenery is genuinely Dutch in the classic sense, and there is a very good chance you will see a windmill.

    What first-timers should avoid is the Leidseplein to Vondelpark corridor during peak hours. It is not dangerous if you stay alert, but it is overwhelming enough to put people off cycling entirely, which would be a shame.

    Should you rent a bike or bring your own for riding in Amsterdam?

    For most visitors, renting a bike in Amsterdam is the practical choice. Bringing your own adds significant travel complexity, and Amsterdam’s rental infrastructure is excellent. Quality varies between rental shops, but a decent three-speed city bike is available across the city for a reasonable daily rate, and it is the right tool for Amsterdam’s flat streets and casual cycling culture.

    If you are staying for more than a week, or you are a serious cyclist who wants to do longer countryside rides, bringing or buying your own bike makes more sense. Second-hand bikes are also widely available in Amsterdam at very low prices, which is either a sign of a healthy cycling economy or a reflection of the city’s extraordinary bike theft rate, depending on how you look at it.

    One practical note: whatever bike you ride, lock it properly. A thin cable lock is not a lock in Amsterdam, it is an optimistic suggestion. Use a heavy chain or a solid D-lock, and ideally both.

    What do Amsterdam cyclists wish tourists knew before riding here?

    Amsterdam cyclists wish tourists understood one thing above all others: the bike lane is not a pedestrian zone with wheels. It is a functional transport network used by tens of thousands of people daily, and stepping into it without looking, stopping suddenly, or cycling three abreast causes genuine disruption and occasional genuine danger.

    • Stay left when cycling slowly, pass on the right, and signal your intentions with hand gestures or a bell
    • Tram rails run parallel to many cycle paths and will catch your wheel if you cross them at a shallow angle
    • Red surfaces indicate dedicated cycle paths, but not all cycle paths are red, so look for the fietspad signs
    • Cycling through the Rijksmuseum passage is technically allowed but practically a nightmare during busy periods
    • A bell ring from behind you is not aggression, it is information
    • Do not stop in the middle of a cycle lane to check your phone, look at a map, or take a photograph

    Amsterdam is one of the most cycling-friendly cities in the world, but that infrastructure was built for people who know how to use it. A little awareness goes a long way, and the locals will warm to you noticeably faster if you cycle like someone who has thought about it.

    How Klagen Niet Klagen helps you get more out of Amsterdam

    Finding genuinely useful, honest information about Amsterdam as a place to live in or explore deeply is harder than it should be. Most English-language content about the city is either tourist-board gloss or fragmented blog posts written by people who visited for a long weekend. Klagen Niet Klagen is something different: long-form commentary on Amsterdam written by someone who has lived and worked here for over three decades, with no tourism-board agenda and no obligation to be diplomatic.

    • Honest, insider perspectives on Amsterdam city life that go well beyond what any travel guide will tell you
    • Cultural commentary that helps you understand the city’s contradictions, not just its highlights
    • Practical and opinionated takes on things to do in Amsterdam, written for curious people rather than passive tourists
    • A consistent editorial voice you can trust, grounded in real experience rather than sponsored content

    If you want more of this kind of writing, the full blog archive covers everything from Dutch cultural norms to neighbourhood guides to the ongoing comedy of Amsterdam city politics. Worth a read before your next ride.

    And if you find yourself in Amsterdam with an evening free after a long day in the saddle, consider spending it at Boom Chicago. It is the comedy theatre that Andrew Moskos co-founded here in 1993, and it has been making Amsterdam audiences laugh ever since. The shows are in English, the atmosphere is genuinely fun, and it is exactly the kind of thing that reminds you why Amsterdam is worth cycling around in the first place. Get in touch if you want to know more.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    What's the safest way to handle Amsterdam's tram rails on a bike?

    Always cross tram rails at a perpendicular angle — as close to 90 degrees as possible — rather than riding parallel or crossing at a shallow angle, which is when wheels get caught. If you need to cross rails in a tight space, slow right down and steer deliberately across them. It sounds simple, but it catches out even experienced cyclists who are momentarily distracted, so treat every rail crossing as something that deserves your full attention.

    Can I do a countryside ride from Amsterdam on a standard rental bike?

    Yes, and it is genuinely one of the best things you can do. Routes like the Amstel south to Ouderkerk aan de Amstel or north through the IJ tunnel into Waterland are entirely manageable on a standard three-speed city rental bike — the terrain is flat, the paths are well-maintained, and neither route requires any specialist equipment. Just make sure your saddle height is properly adjusted before you leave, because an hour on a poorly set-up rental bike will make itself known in your knees long before you reach the windmills.

    What's the best time of day to cycle in Amsterdam to avoid the crowds?

    Early morning — before 9am — is by far the best time to cycle in Amsterdam if you want the city largely to yourself. The tourist-heavy routes around the canal ring and Vondelpark are noticeably quieter, the light is often beautiful, and you get a much more honest sense of the city as it actually functions. Sunday mornings are the gold standard: traffic is minimal, locals are out in a relaxed mood, and the Amstelpark loop or a run along the IJ waterfront feels genuinely peaceful rather than like an obstacle course.

  • Amsterdam is Not Full!

    Amsterdam is Not Full!

    It has been accepted by every journalist and many residents that Amsterdam is full of tourists; TOO FULL! And like the Louvre in Paris, the center of Barcelona and all of Venice, Amsterdam is no fun anymore because there are just TOO MANY TOURISTS! Everyone says it. Het Parool won’t stop writing about it. It must be true!!

    The foreign press agrees: CNN’s The Worst Cities for Overtourism lists Amsterdam first! No points for guessing which European city is being ‘ruined’ by tourists! The Washington Post offered this advice: Looking to dodge Amsterdam’s crowds? There are three remarkable towns a short train ride away. Uh, maybe you want to go to Zwolle, but I don’t. 

    Yes. There are more total tourists, but there is also more space on the street than before. I have been living in the center of Amsterdam for more than 30 years. In terms of livability, getting around and store variety, it has never been this good. My street still has two hardware stores, despite Dutch people’s preferences to order everything on Bol.com, hurting the local businesses they complain are disappearing.

    Less full!

    Despite larger numbers of tourists, most of the city and all of the center is LESS full and more manageable than ever before. This is because of bigger sidewalks combined with many fewer cars. From 2016, through traffic was banned from the center city and 10.000 parking spaces were removed. That extra space plus entire streets have since been given over to pedestrians and bikes. The North South Metro line (M52) removes another 10.000 people per hour from the streets (and trams). 

    Amsterdam neighborhoods like the East, Bos en Lommer and the Bijlmer all have shops, restaurants and destinations of their own. So does (gasp) the North! 30 years ago, I rarely went outside the center. Now I bike to a club past Sloterdijk, take the ferry to a trendy new restaurant in Noord, and see a show in Osdorp. 

    And what about Weesp, the formerly independent town that is now a part of Amsterdam? I don’t know. No one goes to Weesp.

    Great Urban Planning Increased Capacity

    Around 2018, the area around Centraal Station and towards the Dam reopened. A giant bike parking garage was built under the water, buses were moved to an elevated station in the back and cars were banished to a tunnel. Without buses, intersections, and cross traffic, the area can accommodate more capacity. It is more walkable, more bikeable and more calm.

    This complemented the Rode Loper and Oranje Loper street redesign projects, which replaced traffic lanes with wide sidewalks and beautiful urban design on the center’s most important streets. The Rokin now has a promenade on the east side with outdoor seating and three wide sidewalks along the water (if you count the Oude Turfmarkt).

    Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal is a beautiful bike, tram and pedestrian paradise. Ferdinand Bolstraat traded car traffic and one tram track for wider sidewalks and better biking. Soon, pointing west, the Radhuisstraat and the Rozengracht will join them. These improvements increased city capacity more than any increase in tourism filled it.

    Amsterdam’s official policy ranks the priorities for scarce public space. Pedestrians are officially most important, followed by bikes, public transportation, driving and parking in that order. Parking is intentionally valued lower than driving because at least the driver uses the car when they are driving. A former parking space will be strolled on by thousands of people every day. 

    We don’t have ‘overtourism.’ Our capacity for everyone, locals and visitors has gone up!

    The Constant Dutch Complainers: Klagen, klagen, klagen…

    The Dutch are straight shooters who tell you what they think. We call it ‘Dutch honesty.’ Others call it, ‘offering a mean opinion no one asked for.’ While an American might say, ‘You look great. Have you lost weight?’ A Dutch person might say, ‘You used to be so fat!’ This non-filtered thinking, combined with a nostalgia for days that weren’t as good as we remember, has led to the CDCs: The Constant Dutch Complainers. 

    Amsterdam is full of them. These are the people who remark every time their waiter doesn’t speak Dutch, forgetting their own children don’t work in cafes anymore either. And do we really long for the bad (Dutch) service of yesteryear, when customers were routinely ignored in bars, restaurants and cafes? The CDCs ring their bike bells at people who take one step into the street instead of effortlessly gliding around them on streets with few cars. 

    ‘But Andrew,’ the CDCs say: ‘Look at the numbers. We had 10 million tourists in 2005 and 40% more in a decade.’ I nod. ‘In 2021 it was 19 million. And after COVID, in 2023, we hit 23 million visitors.’ 

    If they were wearing glasses, they might take them off for effect. ‘When will it end?’

    Yes, all that is true, but this is not the most important story. Tourism used to be confined to the three summer months, and our primitive infrastructure could not handle them. Now they come year round, and they don’t actually hinder anything. Even their beer bikes have been pushed out to Sloterdijk.

    Three Cheers for Tourists

    Tourists enjoy Amsterdam in a way that many CDCs no longer do. Amsterdammers should follow tourists to the excellent Amsterdam in Motion, the updated This is Holland and the new Minatuur Museum. There are three traveling exhibits at the Rijksmuseum this year. If you haven’t been to the Van Gogh Museum since the new wing opened (ten years ago), that’s on you. 

    Tourists do more than just love Amsterdam. They spend money and fund many of our jobs. They pay four euros every time they check out of a tram incorrectly. Who pays for your trams? Tourists! Additionally, they pay €300 million in tourist taxes each year, enough to fund the entire Amsterdam education budget, including Weesp!

    Their high standards also raise the quality of life in Amsterdam. They read reviews and seek out new experiences. My CDC friends can’t name a new restaurant that opened in the past six months, but tourists can. They are the reason we have so many great places to eat, and why so many are open on Monday and Tuesday. You want to go out to eat in a city without tourists? Try Almere. Eet smakeleijk!

    Furthermore, CDCs somehow define their own foreign adventures as different from those who visit our city. Dutch people abroad are somehow sophisticated travelers, loved by locals, who never generate trash. Foreign tourists in Amsterdam, however, are buffoons who wait in stupid TikTok lines for friets.

    One of those stereotypes must be wrong. Probably both.